Timber Cove road diary: June 18 - 21
Monday, June 18
Leave Oakland 11:30.
Up I-80, cross bridge to San Rafael, 101 up to Gravenstein Highway. Traffic is light on freeways, bridge.
Stop at Forestville for Kozlowski farm store; take traditional photo of Ron engulfing a (small) fruit pie.
In gay-friendly Guerneville, an extremely wizened lady in a Pride hat crosses road; wonder if she knew Sappho.
Traffic surprisingly heavy on Highway One north of Jenner, a number of fast drivers swerving to pass on curves.
Try to stay out of their way, leave them to the Fool-killer.
Stop at vista point where fog limited view last time to about ten feet. Some haze, but can at least see ocean.
Reach Timber Cove around three (100 miles), check in. Room is warm in afternoon sun, but sharp wind blows in off the sea.
An unmissable feature of Timber Cove is Beniamino Bufano's Peace Totem just south of the inn.
Dinner at Coast Kitchen, restaurant at TC Inn (now called TC Resort, not sure why; has added ping-pong table and bocce court). Local IPA pretty good. I have halibut, Joan has scallops; also good.
To bed around nine; wind howls over roof, a pleasant sound when you're snug indoors.
Tuesday, June 19
Up around seven, into Great Room for coffee & danish.
Most people staring at screens in their laps; older gent reading Wall Street Journal on a tablet.
Ah, wilderness.
One woman in lobby reads newspaper, several are available.
Government policy of tearing families apart is on all front pages.
(Visited Facebook last night; angry political posts have eclipsed even kitten videos.)
Go to 'fitness room', try out different weights; about what I expected.
A pair of 15-pound dumbbells, no problem; 25, barely; 30, fuggedaboutit.
Head up to Kruse Rhododendron Reserve, 10 AM; 51 degrees and overcast.
Take Chinese Gulch Trail; lots of foxglove, dogtooth violet, rhododendrons, trillium, salal.
Return to TC ~noon; sun breaks out, fog recedes offshore; still fierce cold wind but blue skies.
Lunch at TC restaurant, then head up to Fisk Mill, find entrance.
The good news: it is now free of charge.
The bad news: no restrooms, no trash or recycling pickup, no trail maintenance.
We find trail to north overgrown, almost impassable. Eleven years ago it was a challenge, now an ordeal.
Try to hike south to Stump Beach. Similar problems, plus appearance of poison oak for first time. Not a problem for us, the wind is so biting that only our noses are exposed.
It could fairly be described as miserable.
Then our luck changes; at the bottom of a narrow twisty steep root-filled stretch is a wooden footbridge over a creek.
On the far side of the creek the path ascends to the kind of level grassy meadow we have been looking for. And as if on cue, the sun comes out.
We follow the sea bluff trail along the rocky coastline through flowering meadows.
Creeks run down to the cliff face where they form dramatic waterfalls.
We continue a couple miles to the north side of Stump Beach, when my knee tells me "Enough for today".
Cross-country up to Highway One and walk back on the road; a little risky with no shoulder strip, but anything would be preferable to returning the way we came. A level paved trail; what a concept!
Back to car, drive (another great idea!) to TC, shower and mellow out till dinner.
Which is smoked trout chowder and sous vide beef short ribs.
After dinner go out in cold brisk wind for the sake of Art to photograph Bufano obelisk in light of setting sun.
Also the sun itself, as it sinks through layers of clouds above the ocean.
Wednesday, June 20
Dawns cold and windy, but sunny and clear.
Get coffee and pastry in lobby, drive to Gerstle Cove.
Hike up to Stump Beach via coastal trail among sea-bluff meadows.
This is what we came for; bundled up against the chill, but out in the open on a mostly level path.
Pass sea arches, creeks, flowers of all kinds but very low to the ground.
Dine on crackers, cheese, veg sticks above Stump Beach in sheltered spot.
On an anthill evidently, but they don't sting; brush them off, keep eating; are hungry.
Hike back to cove and walk on Salt Point Nature Trail; wheelchair accessible.
By this time I would not mind a wheelchair, but we complete the loop.
Drive down to Ocean Cove Inn for big bowls of chowder.
The day is young (3 PM) even if we are not, so we go to Fort Ross Historic Park, restored site of ~1818-1848 Russian settlement, tramp around there.
Return to Timber Cove; burn clothing, take showers, nap.
Treat selves at dinner to (shared) dessert; large gooey brownie with berries and chocolate sauce.
Thursday, June 21
Wake around 2 AM, to see moon setting over calm silver sea. Very peaceful. Back to sleep.
Up about 6:30, much refreshed despite hiking all over west Sonoma for last two days.
Get coffee and croissants in lobby.
South on Highway One via Bodega Bay town. Lunch at Tides Wharf restaurant.
Hitchcock's "The Birds" is still recalled here with photos.
Have coffee and chowder and lots of bread. Head for home. Life is good.
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