October 12/13 Hamburg As they say "Getting there
can be half the fun" and in this case it was. There are a variety of different train
types throughout the country. IC-Inter Country, IR-Inter Region, ICE-Inter Country
Express, Thalys Inter Country High Speed, naturally the DB local trains and a new
one for us this weekend, the Met- Metropolitan. The Metropolitan has club cars and a first
class service consisting of catered meal, beverages, stereo and English, (read my lips)
English movies you play on your personal DVD player. At this point of the trip, Jim would
have booked passage on this train just for the movie. The inside of the train is a
beautiful lighted wood with silver trim and black leather seats. I would tell you what we
had to eat but Im not too sure what it was. So there!!!! There is a lot to be said
for the sandwich you make and put in your backpack, you know what you put in it. It was a
delightful experience.
Hamburg is Germanys biggest industrial city and although its center was totally
destroyed in the Great Fire of 1842 and again by bombing in 1943, it is an extraordinary
beautiful city and definitely worth a stop on your schedule. It has a population of about
1.8 million people with an influx of about 150,000 visitors each day. There are a total of
2,321 bridges over the various waterways, which consist of the Elbe and the Alster (which
is an artificial lake in the middle of the city).
The mainline station (train station) plays a big part in the overall structure of
Hamburg. It has the largest free span roof of any railway station in Germany. Jim tried to
get a couple of pictures but they may not do it justice. As I have told you before, shops
must close in the Gallerias at 4:00PM on Saturday due to labor laws but for some
reason, these laws dont apply in the train station. Therefore there are lots of
restaurants, kiosks, shops that are particular popular because they can stay open longer
in the evenings and the weekends.
Just outside of the train station is the Monckenbergstrasse, which is the shopping
street with the highest level of turnover anywhere in Hamburg. The locals call it the
"Boulevard of Shopping Dreams" which takes in a quarter of a million visitors
every day. (According to the chamber of commerce, you do the math).
The original town hall was blown up during the Great Fire to save the buildings/houses
behind it, which then necessitated building a new one. The new town hall took 11 years to
build and because it sits on a marsh site, it stands on 4,000 oak piles. It survived major
damage during the allied bombings and is definitely worth a visit. The locals brag that it
has 6 more rooms than Buckingham Palace. Ceilings reflect monumental frescos on the
ceilings.
The homes along the Alster are some of the most beautiful homes you could see anywhere.
Since Hamburg is such an industrial city, it has some of the wealthiest families here as
well as many artists and performers. This is in direct contrast to the Krameramtswohnungen
section, which contains the almshouses built in the 17th century for the widows
of small traders. There is a long passage, which is framed by close huddled half-timbered
cottages, which were a donation made by the Krameramt. Today they are the last row of
continuous houses dating from that time.
The Reeperbahn is probably Germanys most famous street and is the center of
Hamburgs night life. The police do not impose any closing hours in this area. This
area contains everything from the theater where the musical Cats has been running for
years to theaters for cabaret and variety acts. The St. Pauli Theater here is 150 years
old and presents folk art plays. All along the "Miles of Sin" as this area is
called are bars, taverns, sex cinemas, peep shows and in fact everything that any decent
red light district ought to be able to offer.
It was good that we saw all of these things on Saturday because come Sunday, the sun
was gone the wind was up and moving. It was incredibly cold!!!!! That wind whipping across
the water coupled with our little windbreakers brought tears to your eyes.
Hamburgs oldest market is the St. Pauli Fischmarkt, which is only opened on
Sundays and only until 10:00 AM. In the summer it starts at 05:00. The fish auction
hall now hosts breakfast, bands and a general overall feeling of a party even at that time
of the day. Near the fish auction hall there are all sorts of things on sale, antiques,
fish of every variety, vegetables etc. Our major purchase was a cap for Jim. Now, I would
never say his little baldhead was cold but the area up there where the hair is sparse, was
cold. As it gets closer and closer to 10:00, each vendor tries to out scream their prices
over the other vendors. At one point we saw two people up on a flat bed and at the time I
thought they were selling baskets. They took the new baskets out of their paper wrappings
and as they praised their value, one lady was putting pineapples, grapes, bananas and all
sorts of vegetables in her basket. I thought she was showing everyone how much it would
hold. Someone bought it, basket, fruit, vegetables and all. This is where not
understanding the language is definitely a handicap.
We walked from there down toward the docks. I cant emphasize how cold it was
often enough. We had decided to take a harbor tour and I let the cold get to me and went
for the first one that advertised a heated tour. I didnt ask the other question,
"Is English spoken". We had a marvelous warm tour of some of the canals, locks
and a running dialogue in German. We still cant figure out if it was a circle tour
and we went through a set of locks to get out of the inner canals, why didnt you
have to go through another set to get back into the inner canals. Its one of those
things you ponder later. One of the things we did see that makes you a little homesick was
the Mississippi Queen, a replica of what you would expect out of New Orleans. Im not
kidding, picture on the web site to prove me out.
From the tour, we wandered down to the Speicherstadt or "city of warehouses".
All goods landing arriving here are landed customs-free so even a casual visitor is
subject to customs regulations. The brick architecture of these buildings is amazing.
These storage buildings could be approached from the rear by barges and from the front by
horse drawn or railway wagons. Some of these warehouses have been converted to museums or
house art exhibits but others still are very much working storage areas. Everything in
this area is built with bricks, the canal walls, sidewalks, and buildings
If you had
a penny for every brick in this area, you would be independently wealthy.
There was much more to see/do but by then we were so incredibly cold, we headed back
for the train station and warmth.
While we were looking for something to eat at the train station...On one of the menus
we saw:
George
W. Bush kartoffel mit broccoli und kase.
The
George W. Bush baked potato with broccoli and cheese sauce. |