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The Napa Valley Tour
Four days, 212 miles
Napa Valley is probably the most famous wine-producing region
in America. Other regions may make wines of equal, or in some
cases, better quality. Other regions may boast thousands of acres
of pampered vines and dozens of prestigious wineries. But no other
region comes close to Napa for the intensive development of its
local viticulture..from the percentage of available land turned
to vines to the sheer number of wineries along its roads, to the
careful grooming of its reputation as the holy grail of grapes.
But Napa Valley is more than just the wine in its bottles. Its
prestige and great natural beauty have proved to be powerful magnets
for visitors, and it ranks right up there with Disneyland and
the Monterey peninsula as one of Californias most popular tourist
destinations. From the point of view of a cycle-tourist, this
is something of a good news-bad news deal: there are literally
hundreds of inns and B & Bs scattered up and down the valley;
but there is also a great deal of traffic, at least at certain
times and on certain roads.
Our Napa Valley Mini-tour does a thorough job of exploring the
best of the regions backroads. Given the particular geography
of the area, its impossible to avoid the busy roads entirely,
but weve tried hard to keep them to a minimum, and to steer our
cyclists onto as many miles of scenic, cycle-friendly byways as
possible.
After considering each of the valleys three small towns as the
base of operations for this tour, we settled on Yountville for
several reasons: it works best for our routes; its conveniently
located, being the town closest to the Bay Area; and it hasin
my opinionthe nicest selection of lodgings. Besides, its a charming
village, with lots to see and do after the rides and an interesting
assortment of places to eat.
Napa County really has two personalities: the nearly flat valley
floor and everything else..meaning for the most part, the hills
that surround the valley. Each of our four basic rides spends
part of its time among the vineyards and wineries of the valley
and part of its time climbing into and dropping back out of the
wooded hills on either side. The four rides are listed below in
the order in which I would choose to do them. However, you can
do them in whichever order you like, and can modify them to your
hearts content.
Tour packet: 31 pages; 35 photos; 4 maps
Where does it go?
Pope Valley Loop
51 miles, 2100 of climb
Heads north up the valley for a few miles before climbing out
of the valley to the east, past Lake Hennessey and into beautiful,
quiet Pope Valley..one of the most serene and scenic cycling venues
anywhere. Climbs back over the hills on a tranquil, easy grade
and drops into Napa Valley on a wonderfully slinky downhill. More
mostly level valley miles bring you back to Yountville. Go slightly
off-course and explore the town of St. Helena.
Mt Veeder Loop
45 miles, 1800 of climb
Begins with a nearly level loop around the valley before winding
into the forested hills again..this time on the west side of the
valley. Climbing is the name of the game almost continuously between
miles 19 and 25, and some of it is quite challenging. But then
you get the payback of a marvelous, twisting descent for most
of the next six miles. The climb and descent are all in woods
of redwood, oak, and bay. After a brief flirtation with Napas
suburbs, roll back to Yountville through the vineyards.
Exploring Up Valley
64 miles, 1400 of climb
Locals refer to the northern end of Napa Valley as up valley.
Thats our destination today. Although its the longest ride of
the set, it has the least elevation gain, because it spends the
most time in the valley, cruising through the vines. There are
only a couple of modest climbs at the far northern end of the
valley, where the route briefly dips a toe into neighboring Sonoma
County. Visits the up-valley hub of Calistoga. Offers an obscure,
hilly add-on for those who havent had enough climbing on the
day.
Sonoma Loop
52 miles, 3100 of climb
A real Jeckyll and Hyde of a ride. Mile after mile of rolling
hills in the vineyardseasy, pleasant ridingbut then a few miles
of steep, sustained climbing on a remote, one-lane mountain road,
followed by some of the fastest, most hair-raising descents around.
Leaves Napa County to visit the historic town of Sonoma. Also
contains a few miles of less-than-great suburban highways with
more congestion than is ideal. But the balance of the ride makes
up for it. At least I think so! We will discuss how to avoid the
big climb and the busy roads with a modified route.
How hard is it?
The Pope Valley Loop has two climbs of about five miles each,
and both are about as easy as climbs can be. Both are also really
pretty, which always helps! The Mt Veeder Loop has the series
of climbs mentioned above..several distinct pitches in a six-mile
stretch, with a couple of miles of it quite steep. Otherwise,
its all flat or downhill. The Up Valley tour is easy, with only
a couple of moderate climbs. The Sonoma Loop is the only ride
that might test an average rider, with its one big climb gaining
over 2000' in five miles. The rest of the loop is flat, rolling,
or downhill. Each ride can be shortened to the point of remaining
almost entirely on the flat valley floor. We will also point out
ways to extend the basic rides, usually with somewhat hilly miles.
Overall, this tour should be within the grasp of a moderately
fit cyclist. I cant think of any four-day stretch on one of our
week-long tours that would be as easy as these four rides.
When should you do this tour?
This tour could be done anytime from April through October, with
just a slight increase in the chance of rain at the outer limits
of that window. Temperatures at the southern end of the valley
are usually kept moderate by the influence of nearby San Francisco
Bay, but the northern, closed-in end of the valleyup around Calistogacan
be quite hot in mid-summer..even over 100°.
Accommodations
Lodgings in Yountville tend to be quite luxurious and are priced
accordingly. A few rooms in town will go for just over $100 a
night, but a more typical tariff is $150 and up. This may not
be outrageous by big city standards, but its a far cry from the
Motel 6s and Best Westerns of this world. For such establishments,
one would have to stay in nearby Napa, half a dozen miles to the
south. Thats another reason for choosing Yountville: St. Helena
and CalistogaNapa Valleys other two resort townsare quite a
bit further from the inexpensive motels in Napa.
Travel...to and from
Yountville is about an hour north of San Francisco. The town is
just off Hwy 29, which is a high-speed freeway until it reaches
Yountville, at which point it becomes a two-lane highway. |
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