Dyeing Cotton |
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Workshop Leader: Peggy Buckingham, (Australia) |
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The preparation of cellulose fibre for dyeing with plant dyes is arguably the most important factor in achieving a satisfactory result. It requires patience and time. A few natural dyes, known since ancient times will dye cotton with little more preparation then a good wash, i.e., indigo, tannin, iron, and some plants used traditionally in South East Asia. We have shown that a very few fungi will colour cotton without mordanting although not to the depth of colour that can be achieved with mordants, or with animal fibres. |
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Teresa
Daly working with Peggy & Michael Buckingham, Australia |
This workshop covered the recommended* methods for scouring, bleaching, if
desired, and mordanting cotton fibre to dye with plant material, fungi in this
case. In a normal time line these procedures would require three to five days.
In order that all steps were included, three sets of samples in varying stages
of preparation were provided. The class worked in three teams to cover all steps, though each team was responsible for only one or two steps. Individuals were expected to observe the other teams and share information with them. The fungi used for the workshop were Dermocybe austrosanguinea and Omphalotus nidiformis. The fibre dyed with the Dermocybe was mordanted in advance of the workshop with the alum-tannin-alum |
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method (Liles #2). In addition, some were pre- and post-mordanted with copper, iron, and tin salts. In class the "quick method" (Robertson) was used to mordant half the Omphalotus samples. These were post-mordanted with the three mineral salts. The remaining half samples were mordanted with tannin alone. These were pre-mordanted with the mineral salts. The "quick method" did not give accurate dye results because we were not able to leave in the dye bath over night. |
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*Liles, J.N.. The Art and Craft of Natural Dyeing., The University |
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Peggy Buckingham, (Australia) discussing dye process with Jean Mounter, (England) and Reena Robins (Australia) |
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Pisolithus marmoratus experiments
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