Just two years before, travelers were not allowed to visit this area. But time and money have their way of changing societies. A jeep was made available to us at a reasonable rate in Hanoi through a tourist restaurant. Our driver did this journey every month and had all sorts of friends on the route. Some of the places we stayed were far from clean and often without hot water. The journey was an adventure and the scenery was worth it.

We went to Cuc Phong, a national park that protects endangered monkeys, and the towns of Diem Bien Phu, Son La, Lai Chau and Sapa. The market in Sapa was the highlight of the trip with different hilltribe people trading. Early morning fog wrapped itself around the old stone buildings. In the distance you could see soft lights as the people began to arrive with their wares. Sugar cane, pigs in bamboo baskets, fresh cabbage, flashlights, herbal medicines coffee and breakfast were all available right there. The hilltribe teenagers traded cassettes with their traditional songs on them. This is part of the way these people get to meet each other. They record their music and song and trade to the opposite sex. This creates a comfortable atmosphere to meet a future partner. Some of the people that came to the market had to walk hours and had only one or two items to sell. I purchased a beautiful basket that a farmer said took him 3 days to make. It was a fine example of true craftsmanship and durability. He took the money (Dong) and was able to get items that he could not grow and shoes for his children. Much bartering goes on here, it has always been that way.

Much of the clothing of these Sapa women is cotton with an indigo dye. The dye bleeds and many women have a bluish tinge to their skin. They also wear earrings made of aluminum because gold is very hard to get. As I walked down the mountain path after purchasing the great basket everyone wanted to know how much I paid. This is a thing in Asia, people have to know. Many said it was the right price.

Our driver told us to be ready for the journey south back to Hanoi. We were to meet at the hotel and leave at a specific time. He was quite late but it didn't matter because the scenery and the people were so interesting. As we headed out of town I could see the mist breaking up and the sun piercing through the clouds. Memories of these people would stay with me, I had some great photos and video and I had the basket. Rural Vietnam was so interesting with rice paddies and small villages with traditional homes. The closer to China we got the people were more Chinese looking. Still each area we went to there were distinctive traits. The journey south took us to a few more obscure areas. The traditional clothing that each area had was a spectacle of reds and blues. Head pieces and baby carriers were the most creative. Leg coverings, bells and earings were similar but unique. Finally arriving in Hanoi I was happy to rest and have hot water.

Hanoi, situated around a lake has some very old areas whose streets are named for the wares that they sell. Bamboo street, food street, wood works street and many more. Busy as ever this city has come out of the war with much Japanese investment and true manpower. These people are not lazy and are always working. Tourists do not come here as much as Saigon. It has an attitude all its own, much different from the south. Still the French managed to implant their customs with berets and fresh French bread on every street corner. There is much charm here. Many times I rented a bicycle and rode around this city. I just flowed with the traffic and there were some interesting sites. One of which is the mausoleum where Hoh Chi Minh is embalmed. You may visit this tomb only 3 days a week. You must walk slowly, no cameras, hands out of your pockets and show respect. The lighting is eerie pink and adds to the strangeness of the place. After seeing more of the city I decided to travel south. I spent a month going to Saigon with stops of three to five days along the way. I took the train most of the way and met some interesting people. I hope to return to this country soon to find more adventure and thousands of smiles. It's a big world out there and I want to see it all.