CLINE CELLARS


Matt Cline Matthew Cline Fred and Nancy Cline became part of the movement to preserve centenary vines in California when they founded their winery in 1982. Through Fred's family they had access to several hundred acres of old vineyards in Contra Costa County, an inheritance from his grandfather, Valeriano Jacuzzi (yes, that Jacuzzi). Many of these dry-farmed vines are now 80 to 110 years old, predominantly zinfandel and mourvèdre planted in the sandy soils of the region. Fred's brother Matt joined as partner in '86, after graduating from UC Davis. In '91, the Clines purchased a 350-acre estate on the Sonoma Valley side of Carneros, where they have newer plantings of syrah and other Rhône varieties--as well as their winery and tasting room. Cline now has 600 acres to provide about 70 percent of its 125,000 case production.

The style of wine at Cline is split between old and new. The old vines yield intensely concentrated reds with a heady aroma, some with the sort of potent barnyard aromatics you might only expect to find in a French wine--but this is clearly a California barnyard. Readers who prefer clean and fresh styles should gravitate toward the newer plantings in Carneros, including the deep and dusky '97 Syrah, round and lavish ripe, the richness cooled by scents of a redwood forest.

If , however, your lust for French bistro food aims in the direction of andouillette, swirl a glass of the '97 Ancient Vines Zinfandel from Contra Costa County a prepare yourself for aromatic overload. This wine is odoriferous in all the best and earthiest ways balanced by plenty of cranberry and black currant flavor. In France, they'd make you pay for such an intimate experience. Here, it's a glorious zin for $20. For everyday, affordable drinking, check out the Côtes d'Oakley line, in red, rosé and white. This year, we found the '97 Vin Blanc especially pleasing, with the viscous texture of a Rhône white and touch of floral aromatics. Try a glass of that in your Jacuzzi.
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Source: Wine & Spirits Buying Guide 2000
WINE & SPIRITS RECOMMENDED WINES

93 | '97 Contra Costa County Ancient Vines Zinfandel $20 (10/99)

90 | '97 Contra Costa County Bridgehead Vineyard Zinfandel $28 (10/99)

90 | '97 Los Carneros Syrah $20 (10/99)

GV | '97 California Côtes d'Oakley, Vin Blanc $8.50 (6/99)

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