Mt. Katahdin to Cooper Brook Falls Lean-to (100 Mile Wilderness)

Wednesday, September 4 -- Katahdin Stream Campground to summit of Mt. Katahdin and return -- 5.2 + 5.2 miles

Got to Katahdin Stream Campground at 7 a.m. -- teamed up with Scarecrow, a retired career army officer thru-hiker about my age. Weather was gray and damp, with occasional rain. First two miles were easy; third mile was killer. Joined by three other thru-hikers here. Very ledgy, hard going. Visibility a problem; finally took glasses off. Rain on and off; cloudy, in 60s. Last two miles on tableland were practically flat. Reached summit about 11:30 (Scarecrow had gone on ahead) -- got photos, ate sandwich, and left. Went down very carefully through steep section -- was by myself. Weather was starting to clear; got some views. Took it very easy. Reached bottom at 4:45 -- had a few problems with ledges but made them all. Very impressive mountain (what I saw of it).
sOn the trail up Katahdin
On the trail up Katahdin
The trail gets steep in the third mile
The trail gets steep in the third mile



Follow this link to an outstanding photo from thru-hiker Wu Li's website looking down on the rugged third mile on Mount Katahdin.

On the summit of Katahdin
On the summit of Katahdin
The first time I really saw Katahdin
The first time I really saw Katahdin
(from near Abol Bridge, the next afternoon)


Thursday, September 5 -- Katahdin Stream Campground to Hurd Brook Lean-to -- 13.4 miles

Left Katahdin Stream about 9:15. Mostly easy walking through mostly level woods. Windy, cloudy around 60°. Clearing by mid-day. Past Daicey Pond, Niagara Falls, down stream to Penobscot River. Several plank crossings, no fords. Saw several thru-hiker types. Lunch 12 to 12:45. Sunny in the afternoon. Met ranger and talked a bit. Finally got view back to Katahdin, clear. After crossing Penobscot River, entered 100 Mile Wilderness. Up hill and through hemlock boulder garden to Hurd Brook Lean-to about 4:45. Shared with four thru-hikers and two gentlemen from Boston area doing southbound hike through 100 Mile Wilderness. Very pleasant group. Afternoon was very fallish -- brisk, sunny, still warm.

Friday, September 6 -- Hurd Brook Lean-to to Pollywog Stream Bridge -- 13.9 miles

Left Hurd Brook about 8:00 -- nice views from Rainbow Ledge (9:15). Sunny, windy, in 60s. Lots of birch/beech foliage color in this area. Down to Rainbow Lake -- again, lots of color. Passed cutoff to Rainbow Mountain 11:15; lunch by Rainbow Spring Campsite at noon. Ankle feeling sensitive, so watching stride placement carefully. The stretch along Rainbow Lake and interim ponds to Rainbow Lean-to were incredibly rooty. Arrived at lean-to about 3:00 and hung out for a while with the two guys from Boston (from last night), then decided to push on and make tomorrow's miles to White House Landing less absurd. Too bad, as the lean-to was quite nice. Saw moose (large black male w/rack) uphill from stream. Tented by Pollywog Stream bridge near logging road. Heard two cars go by on road all night and a.m. Averaged near two miles/hour despite rooty/rocky trails.

Entrance to 100 Mile Wilderness
Entrance to 100 Mile Wilderness

View from Rainbow Ledge
View from Rainbow Ledge


View from Nesabatunt Mountain
View from Nesabatunt Mountain

Nahmakanta Lake
Nahmakanta Lake

Saturday, September 7 -- Pollywog Stream Bridge to White House Landing -- 13.2 + 1.2 miles

Up early; left about 7:30. Found better campsite upstream. Weather humid and cloudy. Up to viewpoint at Nesuntabunt Mountain past Crescent Pond. There at 9:30. Steep down, then MUDs (mindless ups and downs) to beach at Nahmakanta Lake. Passed Wadleigh Stream Lean-to, complete with smoldering fire, at 11:15 a.m.!! Took a minute and smothered it. Right ankle feeling better, though one false plant really hurt. Had lunch by Nahmakanta Lake at noon. Couldn't find multitool. Long frustrating afternoon -- got tireder and tireder. Saw small black animal by stream -- 12-18", black, very nimble -- turns out to have been a mink. At end of lake about 2:00, finally to White House Landing pickup spot about 5:00. Was just beat. White House Landing is a camp on Lake Pemadumcook that has gotten into the business of accomodating hikers. A nice spot, very hospitable. Had shower, pizza and beer for dinner, and repacked food bag.

Sunday, September 8 -- White House Landing to Cooper Brook Falls Lean-to -- 14.0 + 0.3 miles

Finally left White House Landing after 8 a.m. breakfast and after finding everything that I lost or misplaced the night before. (Given how early hikers start on the trail, it was strange the hikers' breakfast wasn't earlier.) On trail about 9:45. Passed Pataywajo Spring Lean-to about 11:00. Huge spring -- easily 6' in diameter. Lunch 12:30-1:15 near Antlers Campsite next to Jo-Mary Lake. Weather partly sunny, hot (in 80s) humid. Watered up at Antlers Campsite and left about 1:45. Arrived at Cooper Brook Falls Lean-to about 5:45 after usual long grinding afternoon. Trails were easier, for a pleasant change -- lots of old woods road walking. Weather a little more sunny and pleasant in the afternoon. Walked near two young guys from Massachusetts whom I had met at White House Landing, one of whom turned around. (The other, whose trail name was OB, I would see again and again as I headed south.) Cooper Brook Lean-to was full, so I tented nearby. Was next to thru-hiker Dutch Uncle, who along with thru-hiker Gear Girl greatly admired my Wanderlust tent.


          Lake Pemadumcook just after dawn

Moving south from Cooper Brook Falls >>