Service Department: Guitar and banjo capos
Do you have a new Shubb Capo that seems too tight for your guitar neck?
It's not because of the new design. Here's the story, and the solution...
These are the names we use for the various parts of the ORIGINAL capo:
on the current design, the bumper and pad are one piece, extending through the middle piece
Is your capo's rubber sleeve showing signs of wear?
You don't throw away a Mercedes when the tires wear out. Replacement sleeves are available at many music stores, or you can get them directly from us. They're easy to replace, and cost two dollars apiece at our online store.
Have you lost or worn out the Delrin (plastic) Cap?
That cone-shaped plastic thing on the end of the screw — we call it a Delrin Cap — is bonded to the screw with cyanoacrylate. It is a very good bond, but occasionally one can come loose and get lost. On instruments with thicker necks, the capo might still work if you tighten the screw further in. On thinner-necked instruments, it won't work at all.
Like sleeves, Delrin Caps are easy to replace and cost two dollars apiece at our online store.
Is the rubber pad coming loose?
The pad is what we call the part of the capo that goes against the back of the neck (not to be confused with the sleeve, that pushes down the strings). The rubber-to-metal bond that we get on the pad is phenomenally good, and they very seldom come loose. But we didn't say never.
If one end of it is loose, but the other is still bonded to the capo, you might want to try fixing it yourself. Lift up the loose end, and insert one drop of cyanoacrylate (super glue, or krazy glue). Apply moderate finger pressure to the pad for about ten seconds. If any excess glue has seeped out, dab it clean with a paper towel.
If the pad has come entirely off, and you still have it, you're welcome to try to glue it back on yourself. You can download the same instructions (pdf, 148 kb) we send out with a replacement pad.
Or we can send you a replacement pad, along with the instructions. You'll need that tube of cyanoacrylate (super glue, or krazy glue). Getting a good bond is kind of tricky, and we've had a lot of practice, so best of all would probably be to send us the capo. We'll put on a new pad, no charge, and send it back to you. For that, we ask you to download and print our repair form, and enclose it with your capo.
Have the parts of the capo become wobbly or loose, so that the capo doesn't work right?
What are you doing to that poor capo, you brute? Maybe it's your fault, ...well, maybe not. But we'll fix it anyway. Send it to us. We'll tighten up the rivets, and clean it up for you if you want us to.
Is a rivet or screw broken or bent?
In about 1983-4 (or so) we changed from a #8 screw to a #10 (thicker) screw, and since then, we've not seen one break. If you have one of those old-timers, and the screw broke, we can either replace it with another #8, or we can refit it with a #10. Your choice. Do you have a greater sense of history or practicality?
Some time in the early 80s we switched from brass rivets to steel rivets. These almost never bend or break. Almost. What? Yours did? Better send it to us and let us fix it.
Did you get the wrong model or style?
Boy, are you dumb. NO, just kidding! It can easily happen. If you bought your capo within the past 30 days (or so), and discovered that you got the wrong one, for whatever reason, we'll trade you for the right one. Here's some more information about just what models and styles are available.
Download our exchange form and print it. Fill it out, and send it to us along with your present capo and a dollar bill to help share the return postage. We'll send you the right capo.
Do you have a capo problem we didn't cover here? Email us.